tortuga journal

So.

I left for the Balkans with nothing but myself; I returned with nothing more. What I saw was nothing special, those I met with quite ordinary. It is a journey I shall never forget, and a journey easily forgotten.

Towering above the small settlement of Kotor is a mountain, a fortress nestled on top. I venture up the path, and admire the fjords of the harbor.

> crunching gravel underfoot

> blistering sun peeks

> through the leaves

Along the way I find a small pasture.

> a church abandoned

> a lunch to enjoy!

The day is a cold and cloudy one, and the only peace I find is in the courtyard of a monastery long since turned into a museum.

> wind

> like water

> cleansing

Watching the sun set, I find pleasant company with a cat quite interested in my sweater.

> how easy

> the sea can be calmed

> with a wall

> the wind howls

> but only quiet

> reaches me here

The ruined fort hides the fields and mountains of the countryside, unspoiled.

> baaing

> from where

> i cannot see

Nestled deep in the forest of Lokrum are hiking paths where only birds punctuate the silence.

> ruined walls

> only guide

The mosque is manned by a kindly old man who talks with me as I wander the sacred grounds. He is wise, but I do not linger.

> this breeze

> touches

> only me

Slippers on my feet, I climb the cold steps of the minaret.

> green water

> flowing by

> minaret and cross

I find silence at Blagaj Tekke. Constructed next to a waterfall, holy men for centuries used it as a place of refuge. It is a privilege to enjoy the peace they have built.

> remove your shoes

> keep yourself covered

> rushing water sound

The coffee of the Balkans is a favorite. The feelings of warmth it imbues are always welcome.

> glistening metal

> bitter sludge

> Bosnian, not Turkish

> a cathedral of

> silence ruined

> by rail

I spend many hours in Liberation Square watching some elderly men engrossed in endless matches of chess. The board and pieces are large, and the crowd even larger. An afternoon of tension, impressive play, and the joy of victorynothing can be better.

> biting nails

> setting sun

> pawn to b4

I have never heard the call to prayer before this journey. At first, it is a surreal moment. Time seems as if it has stopped as the call reverberates around me. But quite soon it becomes merely a comfort, a reminder of a home I've never had.

> echoing calls

> twilight falls

> time to pray

An eight hour train journey is a wonderful time for contemplation, and I am thankful to have Basho's musing for the ride.

> the tracks lull me

> into sleep

> that never comes

The train steams on through the day, and I have the joy of watching the setting sun outside my window.

> dandelion motes

> float into view

> how did they get here?

> flash of golden sun

> a rainbow

> through my window

Filled with the bustle of tourists, I visit Plitvice Lakes and braved the crowds. The sights I am rewarded with more than make up for the hassle.

> camera snaps

> cannot drown out

> the sound of falling water

The ferry is crowded and slow, but the water simply majestic.

> water

> so clear

> the fish float

I am never too far from home as I wander the dreamlike streets of Zagreb. The air buzzes with energy indescribable.

> at night

> everything feels

> like mine

The train zooms past the cultivated land of Slovenia. Wilderness is truly hard to find.

> gently rocking

> field and sky

> go flying by

An early rise lets me wander Ljubljana as the sun begins its creeping ascent. Fog clings to the ground as the city awakens from its slumber.

> the dragon

> guards over

> empty streets

The Julian Alps loom large for the week I am in their shadow. Their snow capped peaks enchant me, even as I explore the city.

> fog off

> the mountain tops

> the day begins

I take a hike through Slovene villages. A pleasant walk, I stumble across rolling fields and charming towns, blessed by the warmth of the sun.

> looking ahead

> but it draws me back

> the snow tipped mountain

Lake Bled is beautiful indeed, but it is the mountains that capture my imagination this day.

> just a glimpse

> of Alpine snow

> do i want the fog to lift?

> the peak!

> just a peek

> just a peak

Peering over the city, the castle provides a sight unmatched. The wind is crisp, and the conversation warm.

> clouds hanging

> with the hint

> of rain

Who would have thought that ramen could be found in a place like this? Tupac blaring, strawberry gelato in my future.

> stars above

> and lights below

> illuminate my breath

It takes some luck, but I finally manage to make it atop the mountain. Still snow on the ground in late spring; how fortunate I am! A quick meal in the lodge prepares me for the day ahead. While I can't enjoy the ski slopes, I take solace in the snowy hike that awaits me.

> where were

> these snow capped tips

> hiding?

The hike is long, the snow deep, and the weather icy cold, but the swaying trees keep me company.

> the roaring wind

> i mistake

> for a stream

I lose my glasses in the mountains, and it only takes me three hours to find them perched atop the glistening white snow.

> clouds

> or mountain tops?

> i cannot say

A light dusting of snow brings me joy beyond words.

> white petals and

> snow dancing

> in the wind

> mountains calling

> on the horizon

> not today

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