Making a Leather Belt

2021-11-26T19:45

A few weeks after making my hat band¹, my old belt broke. I was a bit sad because it's something I've worn every day for 15 years but it couldn't be fixed. It tore where it folds over the buckle and I've gotten a bit fat during this pandemic so there wasn't enough length for me to cut it off and make another end for the buckle.

Old Belt - Outside

Old Belt - Inside

Old Belt - Strap

I tried to find another belt in the shops but I wasn't impressed with the belts I could find. The leather was ugly, was trying to be too trendy or had too much stitching. I just wanted a plain strap of nice leather. I didn't even care that much about the buckle. Those, I can replace.

I gave up looking for a belt and instead looked for the best leather I could find. I wanted to make sure that what I was trying to find was actually a thing. I found a US tannery called Hermann Oak that make just what I wanted. They use traditional vegetable tanning techniques rather than the far more common chrome tanning. Vegetable tanned leather looks better, it's easier to work because it becomes soft and pliable with water and doesn't cause brass to tarnish. This video offers a tour of their factory and demonstrates the process².

I ordered a couple of straps 1 1/4" 8-10oz bridle leather and a few styles of buckle from buckleguy.com. The leather and buckles for two belts ended up costing around US$90 with $32 of that being shipping. So it isn't exactly a cheap option but at $45 for each belt but for some of the best leather that you can buy, I think it's great value.

A few weeks later the order arrived and I made the first one. With the right tools, it's super easy to make a basic belt. Last night I made the second belt and took some photos during the process.

1. Thin out the leather 2" from the end.

2. Soak the end in water, then fold it.

3. Punch a hole (don't do what I did. Punch it from the outside in so that you don't bruise the leather).

4. Open the hole up.

5. Mark where to screw the fold down.

6. Punch the 1/4" holes for the screws.

7. Check it all goes together

8. Trim the corners off

9. Cut to length and trip the other corners off

10. Chamfer the top edges.

11. Put the buckle in.

12. Chamfer the bottom edge.

13. Oil the leather with conditioner. I use Renapur Leather Balsam.

I'll oil the leather a few more times, then wax and burnish the edges. To burnish, I rub beeswax into the edge of the belt and rub furiously with something. You can use bone or wood or metal, I don't think what you used really matters so long as it is hard and smooth.

These are the tools I used:

Edge Beveler

Awl

Hole Punch

Leather Shears

Skiver

This kit will cost US$110. I am no expert in leatherwork or the associated tools. Those are the tools I used and they worked but I don't have any experience with different tools.

1. Hat Band

2. Tour of the Hermann Oak factory

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