[got this with a 1970 bronze green rudge sports with an AW3, dynohub + front and
rear lights, 19.5in ladies frame, aftermarket rack, and the wrong saddle]
[the page is split into three parts: left half, right half, and a cutout along the bottom. all three are separated with a medium-thickness line making roughly an upside-down T shape]
[left half of page]
[centered and somewhat-justified, bold, large font, inside a separate box with a shadow going down-right]
LUBRICATION AND
ADJUSTMENT HINTS
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ADJUSTMENT
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\. *Bearings*: All bearings on a -Raleigh- cycle are easily and externally adjusted
and should be free but with no shake.
1. Wheels should be adjusted that there is no perceptible shake and
yet the wheel should be free to be turned by the weight of the tire
valve. (In the case of the Dynohub the magnet pull is sometimes too
great to allow the valve to descend to the lowest point, but a free wheel
may easily be discerned.)
2. Pedal bearings, by means of the cone and serrated lock washer. Removal
of the pedal end caps will expose the cone which may be adjusted after
loosening the lock nut.
3. Crank bracket axle, by the left hand cup which is freed by loosening
the knurled locking link.
4. Head bearings, by slackening the lock nut above the knurled ball race,
so as to provide a free steering head but with no shake.
*Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs* are always adjusted by the left hand cone.
i.e. that away from the chain. The right hand cone is factory set and
should never be disturbed. Three gears are provided. The normal
(or middle position) represents the ratio the cycle would have without
the variable device. It is employed under average conditions. High (slack
position of the cable) is 33⅓% higher than normal and allows the rider
to take the best advantage of favorable conditions (following wind,
slight down grade, etc.). Low, 25% below normal, enables the rider to
mount hills quite impossible on ungeared cycle. Adjustment: Correct
length of the gear cable controls the proper positioning of the gears.
Initially the cable will stretch and adjustment should be checked as
follows: place the gear lever in middle position, and adjust the screwed
connection above the right hand side of the hub until the flat on the end
of the indicator spindle inside the small chain is exactly flush with the
end of the axle (to be seen through the hollow of the axle nut).
NOTE: If your hub slips it is more than probable that the cable
is out of adjustment. Check this *at once*. Do not ride a slipping hub,
as serious damage inevitably occurs. If correct adjustment of the cable
fails to remedy the slippage, ride only in high gear until the hub has
been inspected by a competent Sturmey-Archer mechanic.
The Dynohub needs no more care other than that given an ordinary front
hub, as there are no additional wearing parts or brushes. Under no
circumstances attempt to remove the magnet or armature from the hub
shell. Even momentary removal will irreparably impair the efficiency
of the Dynohub by causing the magnet to become demagnetized.
*Brakes:* On rod brake models the brake blocks should be so adjusted that
there is no lost motion of the handle bar lever before the brake blocks start
to move. The blocks themselves should be as close to the rim as possible
without touching in the "off" position. Adjustment is effectuated by slack-
ening the nuts of the brake tubes in front of the handle bars and beneath
the crank bracket, drawing the rods further into the tubes and tightening
while holding them in place. Cable brake models are adjusted by the
knurled cable adjusting screw above the brake itself. Blocks must always
be parallel to the rim.
[centered, medium-sized font]
TIRES
90% of tires supplied are to replace those that have been ridden under
[in]flated. At least 55 pounds pressure should be maintained
[right half of page]
[centered, medium-sized font]
RIDING POSITION
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It is of paramount importance to adjust the machine to fit the idiosyn-
crasies of the rider. An easy saddle position is essential, one in which the knee
can be almost straight at the bottom of the revolution of the pedal cranks. The
saddle can perhaps be tipped slightly backwards to give even weight distribu-
tion. Handle bars should be at such a height that the rider has a very slight
amount of weight on the wrists and yet when great pedal effort is applied the
rider should be enabled to drive the Raleigh by pulling on the handle bars as
well as pushing on the pedals. There is no hard and fast rule as to how a
bicycle should be adjusted, and experimentation alone will show the most com-
fortable position. De not raise the handle bars above a point where less than
2½ inches of the stem is covered.
[centered, bold, medium-large font]
GEAR ADJUSTMENT DIAGRAM
[centered, bold, medium font]
INDICATOR AND KEY
[a diagram of the mechanism that attaches to the gear cable, which you use to adjust the shifter. there's a tall and narrow rectangle on the left, with a small equilateral triangle poking through the left side of it and a long rectangle the same height as the triangle on the right side, representing a circular axle with a pointy end going through a circular stopper thingy. on the right side of the axle, there's a slight divet and then it widens back out to the same width as the axle over a width that's maybe 1.5 times as wide as the stopper thingy. next, there are three small chain links chained together, roughly the same height as the axle, and maybe twice as wide as the stopper. there're more links on the actual bike but they don't really matter for our purposes. there's an arrow pointing to the bottom-left part of the axle, where it intersects with the right of the stopper, and it's labelled "A". there's another arrow, pointing to the bottom of the intersection between the axle and the slight divet, labelled "2nd SHOULDER OR" and then on a second line that's right-aligned with the first "BASE OF CONE". there's a third arrow pointing to the top of the chain link closest to the axle labelled "1st SHOULDER"]
[a diagram of the above, placed within the rest of the hub. it's labelled "HIGH GEAR". there's a bunch of stuff on the left side of the stopper which i'm not gonna describe, but there's also a larger, hollow axle that the axle from the first diagram is inside. it's threaded along the ~2/3 of it that are farthest from the stopper. the center of the eyelet that's farther away from the stopper on the chain link that's closest to the stopper is aligned with the edge of the outer axle which is farthest from the stopper. there's an arrow pointing to the top of this intersection, and it's labelled "B"]
[two diagrams side by side, of the same hollow axle + second axle as in the second diagram. the left diagram is labelled "NORMAL GEAR". there's a nut on the outer axle, with an even larger hollow metal cylinder coming out of it away from the stopper. there's a window through which you can see the are around the end of the middle axle. the end of the cone farther from the stopper is aligned with the end of the middle axle. the right diagram is labelled "LOW GEAR", and has the end of the cone closer to the stopper aligned with the end of the middle axis]
[centered, medium-sized font]
LUBRICATION
[justified, small font]
May we caution riders that certain widely sold oils are positively harmful
and must be avoided at all costs. Use only a high grade lubricant such as that
which we specially prepare for all bearings of the -Raleigh- cycle. The following
points should be oiled using 3 or 4 drops every 250 miles.
A. Front and rear hub bearing, by lubricator situated in the middle of the hub
barrel
B. Crank bracket, by lubricator either of the spring top type or small easily
unscrewed plug on the left side of the crank bracket shell.
C. Pedals, by the small hole in the middle of the dust cap.
D. Brakes and pulley (working parts).
E. Every six months the head (steering bearings) should be oiled by turning
the bicycle upside down and injecting 2 or 3 drops on the bearings hidden
in both ends of the head tube, i.e. just above the point where the fork
enters this tube, and just below where the handle bar stem leaves it.
F. On chain case models the chain may be oiled by unscrewing the small
plug at the rear of the chain case and slowly injecting not more than a
teaspoonful of oil while turning the pedals backwards. This is normally
not necessary more frequently than every 6 to 9 months.
NOTE: A little and often should be the guide to proper lubrication. If
too much oil be injected into hubs, it will invariably exude therefrom and run
down the spokes and eventually rot the tubes.
[left side of bottom pane]
[centered, bold, medium-large font]
RENT or BUY your BICYCLE
[centered, medium font]
At the "BI-EX" in Cambridge
About 1 mile down the Charles from
GERRY'S LANDING HOSTEL
[box with drop shadow, as tall as one line of medium-large font. on the left, in bold medium-large font]
RENTALS
[on the right, justified, bold, medium font]
Lightweights with and without 3-speed gears.
2 day period—$2.50 and $3.50. Weekly—$4.25
and $5.25. 2 week period—$7.25 and $9.50.
[right side of bottom pane. there's no line between the two, but the left and right halves are laid out separately]
[sturmey archer logo. dark-grey rectangle with a circle in the middle and an internally geared hub in that circle. there are an arrow going from the left side of the rectangle to the left side of the hub, parallel to the top of the rectangle, slightly higher than the center of the rectangle. it has a triangle taken out of the left side, and the triangle on the right is slightly taller than the body of the arrow, but still centered on the center of the arrow's body. there's an identical arrow rotated 180° around the center of the box, going from the bottom-right to the bottom-center on the right side of the hub. the left arrow has "STURMEY" printed in it, with the S slightly larger than rest, and the right arrow has "ARCHER" printed in it, with the R slightly larger than the rest]
[there's a line along the bottom of the page, but on the right side, it branches out in roughly a rectangle to make a black box around some text. the top and bottom of the rectangle are straight, but the left and right are slightly curved towards the center as they go from the bottom to the top. the text is roughly the size of the medium-large font, the first word is italicized, and the rest is bolded]
The BICYCLE EXCHANGE
gemini://ecs.d2evs.net/raleigh_manual.txt